Compare and Contrast Old World and New World Wines for a Wide Range of Flavors and Tastes

This article originally appeared, in part, in the December, 2015/January, 2016 issue of Bellingham Alive magazine.

Everyone has their taste preferences when it comes to wines…red versus white, Chardonnay versus Merlot, sweet versus dry.

But there’s another potential division among wine drinkers that falls along geographic lines: “Old World” versus “New World.”

Old World wines refer to those with European roots; most notably originating from France, Italy, and Spain, and to a lesser extent, Portugal and Germany.

The New World essentially refers to everywhere else outside this region, with big players coming from the United States and Canada, Australia and New Zealand, Argentine and Chile, and South Africa.

Wines from Old World countries are generally characterized as having understated, leaner fruit flavors, higher acidity, and lower alcohol levels; while New World wines are more likely to display full-bodied, robust fruit flavors and a slightly higher alcohol content.

Over the past few decades, the lines have blurred a bit between Old World and New World wines. For example, Super Tuscan wines from Italy have enhanced a lighter Sangiovese base with Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot; once over-oaked Chardonnays from California and Washington are now fermented in stainless steel for a brighter, leaner finished product.

But overall, you’re still likely to find subtle, but noticeable differences between these wine regions. In a word, that means variety, with plenty of wines to suit everyone’s taste preference.

VIVA ITALIA!

Nothing kicks off a festive event better than a glass of sparkling wine from Italy. A couple of purchase-worthy selections: The Jeio Prosecco Spumante Brut (about $17), with lemon wafer and green pear flavors and a crisp, bone-dry finish with a trace of steely minerality; or the Bisol Crede Prosecco Superiore (about $25) with floral aromatics, a touch of citrus and green apple, and an elegant, slightly creamy finish. Both wines are perfect for a mid-morning brunch or holiday tastings.

If you’d rather go sans bubbles, Italy’s Soave growing region offers white wines that also make great event-starters. The Rocca Sveva 2013 Cantina di Soave (about $15) is vibrant, lively and certain to be a crowd-pleaser. It’s packed with white peach, Fuji apple, and green melon flavors that are capped with bracing acidity on a clean finish. Try it with lighter seafood dishes or oysters on the half-shell.

Winemaker David Volmut of Wind Rose Cellars is doing an excellent job with Italian varietals such as Sangiovese, Nebbiolo, and Dolcetto at his winery in Sequim on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula. His wines are made in a very Eurocentric style with reserved fruit flavors and good acidity that make them great food-pairing choices.

To lead off, try the 2014 Pinot Grigio (about $16). This virtually colorless white wine is sourced from Yakima Valley grapes and features a hint of lemon citrus and green pear, meadow grasses, nice minerality, and a linen-crisp finish.

Red wine notables include the 2013 Primitivo (about $25), with understated red berry and cherry fruits, spicy accents, and just a bit of tannic lift on an otherwise silky-smooth finish; and the 2012 Barbera (about $27) with lovely raspberry aromatics, dark plum fruit on the mid-palate, and a bright finish with a dusting of cocoa powder. Outstanding!

Wind Rose Cellars produces roughly 1,800 cases a year and wines can be purchased in select retail outlets ( visit http://www.windrosecellars.com/retail/), at the tasting room, or on line at windrosecellars.com.

A VOTRE SANTÉ

France’s Bordeaux region exemplifies centuries of skillful winemaking within strict, regulated standards. Cru Bourgeois wines are traditional Bordeaux blends grown on a single château from the area’s Left Bank and comprised primarily of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

The Château Meyre 2012 Haut-Médoc (about $30) combines these two varietals along with a splash of Petit Verdot to produce an intriguing red Bordeaux with classic features. Green herb, slate and berry aromas, black currant flavors, and a well-structured finish naturally suggest a pairing with a beef entrée.

Owen Roe in Yakima also currently offers a stunning Bordeaux blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Malbec in its 2012 Red Wine (about $28). Nutty, caramel aromatics fill the glass while initial flavors of black plum give way to leaner red fruits and nuances of mocha on the finish. It’s an exquisitely balanced and beautifully crafted wine.

Although Pinot Noir originated in France’s Burgundy region, South Africa offers a worthy competitor with its only native grape, Pinotage. The Kanonkop 2013 Estate Pinotage (about $34) is an impressive effort, with seductive blackberry and rich plum fruit and underlying notes of licorice and espresso. The finish carries a whisper of smoke and trace of earthiness.

If French white varietals are your preference, check out Qupé Wine Cellars 2014 A Modern White (about $17) from California’s Central Coast region. Viognier, Chardonnay, and Marsanne grapes combine to bring you nicely complex, layered flavors of Golden Delicious apple, apricot, and citrus, followed by a slightly herbaceous finish.

VIÑO DE ESPANA

From the foothills of the Pyrenees in Northeast Spain, the Viñas del Vero La Miranda de Secastilla 2013 Garnacha Blanca and 2013 Tinto (about $15 each) offer Spanish wine lovers two overachieving options that deliver quality at an extremely reasonable price.

The Garnacha Blanca is a refreshing white wine with gentle stone fruit and green melon flavors, while the finish is crisp and dry with a flourish of lemon zest. The Tinto is primarily comprised of Garnacha grapes and offers a mouthful of spicy, brambly berry flavors and a warm, round finish of cola and licorice. It’s a perfect pairing partner with grilled meats, lamb, or a hearty beef stew.

Walla Walla’s Palencia Wine Company currently has a pair of Spanish-based varietals that are completely over-the-top in terms of complexity and taste. The 2014 Albariño (about $18) has lovely aromas of allspice and clove that carry over to the palate along with subtle flavors of peach, baked apple and Bartlett pear; and the ever-evolving 2013 Tempranillo (about $50) opens with velvety currant and black tea flavors that melt into ultra-dark cherry and bittersweet chocolate. An extended, textured finish is framed by toasted vanilla bean. Bold, yet refined, this exceptional red wine is worth every penny.

BLENDED COUNTRIES

Can’t decide on a favorite? Then choose a wine that includes varietals from across-the-border sources. New Zealand’s Trinity Hill “The Trinity” (about $17) combines Merlot, Tempranillo, Malbec, Touriga Nacional, and Cabernet Franc. The nose suggests cherry and black olive with intense, dark fruit flavors and a soft finish that carries an inky, velvety quality.

Finally, be sure to consider the Gifford-Hirlinger Winery 2013 Stateline Red (about $18) from Walla Walla. This blend of four French varietals and a touch of Tempranillo yield a full-bodied red with dense, compact berry flavors, a twist of black pepper, and sturdy tannins. Incredibly well priced, it can be served now or easily cellared another three to five years for future enjoyment.