Merlot vs. Pinot Noir: You be the Judge

If you saw the critically acclaimed movie, “Sideways,” you know that one of the lead characters was constantly preaching the virtues of the delicate, yet finicky Pinot Noir grape while constantly bashing the more popular Merlot.

My theory for the outcry – which led to a nationwide increase in Pinot Noir consumption – is that everyone is out to get you when you’re on top. For years, Merlot was the darling of red wine drinkers. In fact, it was downright unfashionable not to be seen drinking it in the late 1990’s and early 2000’s. So just as fashions change, it was inevitable that something else would try to be promoted to replace it as the red wine of choice.

Let me emphasis “try.” In Washington, Merlot is still one of the most widely produced grapes in the state. And for my money, I’d take a Merlot, with its dense, complex layers and soft finish over a lighter bodied Pinot Noir almost any day.

I recently attended a blind tasting of Merlots from the Pacific Northwest, California and Europe. The top two choices – clearly preferred by all of the tasters – were both from Washington. Although the wines are premium priced, their quality levels set them above the rest. Here are my tasting notes on each:

2002 Five Star Cellars, Walla Walla Valley (about $31) – Beautiful nose of cedar and cherry with huge berry and black cherry flavors and a big, chewy finish. Bring on the beef!

2002 Canon del Sol, Columbia Valley (about $23) – Dark plum and blueberry fruit flavors with delicate tannins and an ultra-long finish make this an elegant Merlot.