Mount Baker Vineyards Paints a Broad Stroke With Several Wines

Mount Baker Vineyards’ Randy Finley could well be the role model for the old adage, “when life gives you lemons, make lemonade.”

As owner/winemaker, he’s dealt with his share of setbacks over the past several years yet continued to make consistently high quality wines as Whatcom County’s oldest winery.

For starters, Finley lost not one, but two promising winemakers to other wineries. He’s overcome those losses by making what he calls, “wine by committee,” drawing on his own experience along with the talents of this son, Maitland (formerly of A to Z Wineworks in Oregon), and the Mount Baker Vineyards staff.

Then Finley was faced with an under ripe crop of last year’s chasselas grapes at the winery’s Whatcom County vineyard that was unfit for making wine. Instead of tossing the lot, he bottled it as Verjus Blanc, a tart, tasty non-alcoholic grape juice that can be used for deglazing, as a cocktail sour mix or a refreshing aperitif.

I’ve always felt that there’s something for everyone’s tastes at Mount Baker Vineyards, and Finley does not disappoint by offering a huge selection of varietals. Here are a few of my favorites among his current releases:

2010 Estate Chasselas (about $13) – Blended with five-percent viognier, this perfectly balanced white is a bit fuller in body than the winery’s previous vintages. Gentle peach, pear and nectarine flavors are capped with a touch of sweetness and a splash of acidity.

2010 Market Cellars Chardonnay (about $16) – I loved the complexities of this well-priced chardonnay. It begins with a whiff of butterscotch and sandalwood on the nose, creamy toffee and caramel flavors at the mid-palate and a hint of espresso on the finish.

2008 Reserve Syrah (about $24) – Rich plum, black cherry, and black currant flavors are balanced with just the right amount of acidity to make this beautiful juice.

2008 Barbera (about $25) – Enticing aromatics of cherry and mint lead to ample red fruit flavors suggesting pomegranate and currant. A dash of pekoe tea and spice in the background nicely accompany the wine’s gentle tannins.

2009 Grenache/Syrah (about $25) – There’s a striking contrast between the bright, cranberry flavors of the grenache and the dark, slightly smoky notes of the reserve syrah. Together they add up to a flavorful red wine with incredible balance and texture.

2008 Market Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon (about $34) – Blackberry, dark plum, and a hint of black coffee lead off; then a trace of raspberry wraps around the finishing tannins.

Mount Baker Vineyards has two tasting rooms: near Deming off the Mount Baker Highway and at the Market Cellar Winery near Pike Place Market in Seattle.