Blaine Winery Continues to Come Up With Innovative New Wines

Tom Davis and Tracey DeGraff of Glacial Lake Missoula Wine Co. in Blaine always seem to be on the cutting edge of creative and innovative wines, but I’d care to wager that they’ve really outdone themselves this time.

Their three stylishly labeled newest releases (each priced at $25), along with one previously released wine, are all sourced from just two grape varieties from Rebecca’s Vineyard in Oregon’s Umpqua Valley.

The two grapes, chardonnay and gamay noir, are from the testy, cooler 2011 vintage and the wines they’ve yielded are indicative of what you might expect from most Pacific Northwest wineries for this vintage.

These are much more European-style wines in that they place less emphasis on fruit flavors, are higher in acidity and practically demand to be served with food.

Let’s start with the 2011 La Reine Chardonnay. This wine went through malolactic fermentation while aging eight months in toasted oak and it’s showing all the characteristics of a French Chablis.

Bright acidity lingers on the front of the palate with musky, ultra-ripe Granny Smith apple, lemon zest and shortbread in the background. Substitute this for a sauvignon blanc and pair it with oysters, scallops or salmon.

The second and third wines were derived from the gamay noir grape. Twenty-five percent of the juice was used to make the previously released 2011 Kolk Rosé (about $15), a lip-smacking, crowd-pleasing summer wine with a mouthful of rhubarb and strawberry flavors that should pair perfectly with an assortment of mild cheeses.

The remainder of the juice spent eight months in oak and was bottled as the 2011 Gamay Noir. Laser-sharp cherry flavors and a trace of chalky tannins highlight this Beaujolais-style red, which should be chilled and served young, perhaps with thin slices of pancetta or prosciutto.

The final new release, the 2011 La Robe Chardonnay combines the juice of the chardonnay grapes with the skins of the previously pressed gamay noir. While the gamay comprises only one-half of one percent of the finished wine, it provides all the color and tannins of a full-fledged red.

The La Robe has a lovely floral/lavender fragrance with pie cherry and cranberry flavors that “tame” the chardonnay. Try it with fried chicken or a creamy, cheesy risotto.

If you feel as if you need a flowchart to follow the process, Davis has created a nifty schematic that is available at the tasting room; now open from noon to 6pm Saturday and Sunday or on Fridays by appointment. Phone (360) 332-2097 for more information.